Xunantunich
Structures of Many Stories
Clues into the Mystery of the Maiden of the Rock
Local legend tells the tale of a ghostly belle adorned in white, scaling the steps of El Castillo
Gazing out over the Mopan River Valley, stands Xunantunich, one of Belize’s most beautiful and mysterious ancient Maya sites.
The site’s modern name, pronounced zoo-nan-tun-ich, means stone woman and references the local legend of a ghostly belle, adorned in white, with glowing red eyes. She appears at dusk, scaling the steps of El Castillo, before disappearing into the stone face at the top.
El Castillo, the most prominent structure at Xunantunich, towers over the central plaza, and faces the North. This structure is known best for the exquisite stucco friezes flanking its east and west sides. The primary glyphs represented there are known to symbolize the sun, the moon and Venus - three celestial bodies that play major roles in the cosmology of the ancient Maya.
Kin = Sun
Masculine / Fire / Air / Heat / Light Strength / Day
Muluc = Moon
Feminine / Water / Earth / Cool / Dark Adaptable / Night
Lamat = Venus
Changing / Morning Star and Evening Star / Unconditional love / War / Sacrifice
All visible with the naked eye, the movements of these bodies were understood and charted by the ancient Maya with mathematical precision.
An extraordinary example of this is the Dresdin Codex, an ancient scripture of Mayan origin, which details the positions of Venus over a period exceeding 100 years.
The cycles of the stars and planets were paramount to the ancient Maya
The importance of the cycles of stars and planets to the ancient Maya is evidenced in their building practices.
Xunantunich is one of many Maya sites, which contains a fascinating building style, known among researchers as an E-Group.
Structures were built in a row of three along a north-south axis, with another structure facing them from a distance.
From this fourth structure, often set in the west, one can watch as the sun rises directly over the central structure at the equinoxes, or over one of the outer structures at the summer and winter solstices.
The ancient Maya celebrated this east, west alignment as it represents life, death and rebirth. In a classic Mayan creation myth, a young goddess falls in love with a hunter, the Sun, without the approval of her father. Furiously, her father orders her to be killed. She is soon reborn as the Moon, but cast opposite the Sun to rule the night. Each lover’s eternal search for the other is the cause for the recurring day and night.
In other versions of the story, the goddess is magically impregnated and gives birth to feathered serpent twins. The twins are seen in the sky as the morning star and evening star, both Venus at different times of the year.
In Mayan myth, a goddess falls in love with a hunter, against her father’s wishes
The ancient Maya celebrated this east, west alignment as it represents life, death and rebirth. In a classic Mayan creation myth, a young goddess falls in love with a hunter, the Sun, without the approval of her father. Furiously, her father orders her to be killed. She is soon reborn as the Moon, but cast opposite the Sun to rule the night. Each lover’s eternal search for the other is the cause for the recurring day and night.
In other versions of the story, the goddess is magically impregnated and gives birth to feathered serpent twins. The twins are seen in the sky as the morning star and evening star, both Venus at different times of the year.
Is the ghost of El Castillo, the maiden goddess, adrift in search of her prince?
Could it be, the lady at El Castillo, with her white flowing garments and glowing red eyes has something to do with this story of the maiden, adrift in search of her glittering prince?
The only way any of us could truly know, would be to go to Xunantunich and ask the spirit herself…
That is, if you’re willing to ask.
And she’s willing to answer.
Tracking Venus
From the perspective of earth, Venus tracks a beautiful five petaled flower pattern in the sky over a 40 year period.
Every 8 years, the planet completes one of its 5 petals. This harmony of the numbers 5 and 8 is significant. When these numbers are divided, the result approximates the golden ratio…
Could this be why the ancient Mayans paid such close attention to this light in the night sky?
Solstices + Equinoxes
Who is Ix Chel?
In Mayan art, this moon goddess takes on many forms and is often linked with the Mayan Goddess Ix Chel, weaver of the universe. Her name means Lady Rainbow, and she is also associated with the strength of young motherhood and the color white.
In another light, she is cast in red as Chac Chel, the wise and experienced crone who is depicted pouring water. She symbolizes the cleansing of old, to make way for the new.
Getting to Xunantunich
The ancient site of Xunantunich are easily accessible by car and are situated just off the highway outside Benque Viejo Del Carmen. Take the George Price Highway to Cayo, past San Ignacio to the village of Succotz, where a hand cranked ferry will carry you and your vehicle across the river.
After a short drive uphill, visitors can park and pay a small entry fee. A brief trek uphill is required before reaching the site.
What to Pack
Comfortable clothing, water, and your camera is probably plenty, but sunblock and bug spray never hurt. Between Benque Viejo, San Ignacio, and Succotz, the area is loaded with great restaurants to satisfy your hunger after an afternoon excursion.